| Table of Contents | |
| Possible Causes of P0133 & Their Repair Costs | A P0133 code indicates that the oxygen sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) is responding too slowly to changes in the exhaust stream, preventing timely fuel adjustments. |
| How to Diagnose the Cause of Your P0133 Code | A P0133 code indicates an oxygen sensor is responding too slowly. Bad O2 sensors, wiring problems, blown fuses, exhaust leaks, a dirty MAF sensor, or fuel system issues like a weak pump or bad pressure regulator can cause this. In some cases, an engine computer can be involved. |
| Yes, short-term driving with a P0133 code is acceptable. Repairs shouldn’t be delayed to prevent more extensive damage. Driving should be avoided if engine performance is affected due to the potential for hazardous situations. | |
| DIY | How To Fix P0133 Causes |
DIYable P0133 triggers include:
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| P0133 Code FAQs |
Frequently asked questions:
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There are dozens of diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) involving oxygen sensors. This arrangement may seem overwhelming, but it makes sense as these sensors are critical to emissions control. The engine control module (ECM) or powertrain control module (PCM) relies on oxygen sensors, which measure the air level in exhaust gases, to balance the air-to-fuel ratio, affecting efficiency, power, and emissions.
Most vehicles have two types of sensors: upstream and downstream. An upstream sensor (Sensor 1) is located between the exhaust manifold and the catalytic converter, while a downstream sensor (Sensor 2) is positioned after the converter. Sensor 3 is another downstream sensor focused on monitoring catalytic converter efficiency.
DTC P0133: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1) points to an issue with an upstream sensor that’s slow to respond to changes in the exhaust stream. The sensor still works, but not as quickly as the ECM requires.
The Bank 1 element of this code indicates the trouble is on the Bank 1 side of the engine. For example, v-formation powerplants (V6s and V8s) have two cylinder banks, while inline engines (three to six cylinders) have one cylinder bank. So, while every gas-powered vehicle has a Bank 1, not all have a Bank 2.
As mentioned, there are numerous oxygen sensor-related codes, including:
- P0130: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
- P0131: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
- P0132: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
- P0134: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
- P0135: Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
- P0136: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- P0137: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- P0138: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- P0139: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- P0140: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- P0141: Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
- P0142: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- P0143: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- P0144: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- P0145: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- P0146: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- P0147: Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- P0150: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
- P0151: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
- P0152: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
- P0153: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
- P0154: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
- P0155: Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
- P0156: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
- P0157: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
- P0158: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
- P0159: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
- P0160: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
- P0161: Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
- P0162: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
- P0163: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
- P0164: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
- P0165: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
- P0166: Oxygen O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
- P0167: Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0133 is a moderately severe trouble code. Although this problem usually doesn’t require immediate attention, repairs should be made within the next week or two to avoid further complications. You’ll often deal with reduced fuel economy and increased emissions. Sometimes, there may be no symptoms beyond a check engine light.
Yet, urgency kicks in if engine performance suffers. Hesitation or stalling creates a hazard on the road. Further, failing to address a P0133 code can eventually cause catalytic converter or engine damage.
With these fundamentals out of the way, now’s the time for a deep dive into P0133 codes. You’ll learn the likely causes and common symptoms of this problem. In addition, we’ll examine how much repairs cost and what makes and models have the most significant experience with P0133 codes.
Possible Causes of P0133 & Their Repair Costs
While the odds favor a faulty oxygen sensor being the cause of a P0133 code, it’s not the only possibility. Understanding all the potential code triggers will put you in a better position, regardless of whether you’re an advanced DIYer or prefer to let a mechanic handle the problem.
Check out the FIXD article on the most common causes of check engine lights.
Here’s an overview of the parts and systems that can cause a P0133 code and their average repair costs. Actual prices can depend on the vehicle and location.
P0133 Code Triggers & Typical Repair Costs
| Part To Repair | Part / DIY Price | Mechanic Total Cost |
| Oxygen Sensor | $300–$333 | $362–$412 |
| Damaged Wiring (oxygen sensor harness) | $25–$100 | $100–$350 |
| Fuse | $1–$5 | $26–$45 |
| Exhaust: Repair Leak (welding) | N/A | $100–$200 |
| Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Clean | $20–$40 | $100–$200 |
| Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Replace | $36–$47 | $241–$353 |
| Fuel Pump | $980–$1,110 | $1,148–$1,321 |
| Fuel Pressure Regulator | $103–$130 | $275–$333 |
| Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module | $929–$978 | $1,006–$1,075 |
Let’s explore how these failed components can cause a P0133 code.
Parts Most Likely to Fail & Cause a P0133 Code
| Parts that can cause P0133 | How it could cause P0133 |
| Oxygen SensorOxygen Sensor Harness | A P0133 code can occur when a failing oxygen sensor responds slowly to exhaust changes or damaged wiring interferes with the sensor’s signal transmission. Both situations prevent the engine computer from receiving timely data needed for fuel adjustments. |
| Fuse | A blown fuse that feeds power to the oxygen sensor circuit can cause a P0133 code because, without proper voltage, the sensor cannot heat up to its required operating temperature, resulting in slow response times that trigger the code. |
| Exhaust (leak) | An exhaust leak near the oxygen sensor can cause a P0133 code by allowing outside air to mix with the exhaust gases, which creates inaccurate readings and causes the sensor to respond slowly as it tries to compensate for the inconsistent oxygen levels. |
| Mass Air Flow Sensor | A dirty or faulty MAF sensor sends incorrect airflow readings to the engine control module, causing improper fuel mixtures that force the oxygen sensor to work harder and respond more slowly to compensate for these constant air-fuel imbalances, triggering the P0133 code. |
| Fuel PumpFuel Pressure Regulator | A failing fuel pump or bad fuel pressure regulator can cause inconsistent fuel pressure and delivery, forcing the oxygen sensor to adjust to erratic fuel mixtures constantly. This condition causes slower response times that trigger the P0133 code when these delays exceed normal parameters. |
| Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) | A failing fuel pump or bad fuel pressure regulator can cause inconsistent fuel pressure and delivery, while a faulty ECM/PCM may misinterpret sensor signals or send incorrect commands. Both scenarios force the oxygen sensor to constantly adjust and respond slowly to erratic fuel mixtures, triggering the P0133 code. |
Makes Commonly Affected By P0133
Like another O2 sensor-related code, P0131, we’ve covered, Ford stands at the top of the list of brands most impacted by P0133 codes, according to FIXD sensor data. Among all the Blue Oval’s models, the long-serving F-150 is the poster child for P0133 codes.The Mustang and Fusion round out the top three spots for these code occurrences.
The Grand Cherokee is the number one Jeep for P0133-related problems, followed by the Wrangler and Liberty. However, no Jeep model had a high overall incident level for these troubles.
Third place goes to Toyota, thanks to a strong history of P0133 codes from the Corolla, Sequoia, and Tundra. Interestingly, the Corolla is only one of two models with a high overall occurrence rating for this issue. The other is the Ford F-150.
Another Japanese automaker, Nissan, is among the top-five roster of P0133 troubles. The brand’s leader is the Frontier pickup, followed by two SUVs, the Xterra and Pathfinder.
A background of P0133 codes by the Cobalt, Traverse, and Equinox confirms Chevrolet’s fifth-place status. However, only the Cobalt had a medium incident rating. All other Chevys have low or zero occurrence levels.
| Top 5 Makes Affected by P0133 | Most Affected Model(s) |
| Ford | F-150 |
| Mustang | |
| Fusion | |
| Jeep | Grand Cherokee |
| Wrangler | |
| Liberty | |
| Toyota | Corolla |
| Sequoia | |
| Tundra | |
| Nissan | Frontier |
| Xterra | |
| Pathfinder | |
| Chevrolet | Cobalt |
| Traverse | |
| Equinox |
How to Diagnose the Cause of Your P0133 Code
Troubleshooting a check engine light begins with using an OBD-II scanner to confirm the diagnostic trouble code behind the warning. For some car owners, a basic code reader will meet their needs. Just plug it into the car’s OBD-II port, and the device will display any active codes, such as P0133. For those interested in learning typical causes of a code or repair information, the FIXD plug-in sensor and accompanying FIXD app provide next-level details.
Following confirmation of a P0133 code via a scanner, grab a few essentials to conduct a preliminary inspection of the possible trouble spots. You’ll need a flashlight, gloves, safety goggles, and a rag.
Safety Essentials
Before exploring the source of a P0133 code, you’ll want to observe the following:
- Park on a level surface in a safe area
- Ensure the car is off and the parking brake is engaged
- Allow the engine to cool
Symptoms of P0133 Causes
The trigger for a P0133 can come from several sources—a bad oxygen sensor is only just one of them. Here’s a broad look at the possibilities and tips for performing a preliminary inspection yourself. However, some work is best handled by a professional.
Symptoms:
- Illuminated check engine light
- Rough idling
- Reduced fuel economy
- Engine stalling or hesitation
- Black exhaust smoke
- Failed emissions test
What to Inspect:
- Inspect the sensor for damage, corrosion, or oil/coolant contamination
- Check for white or chalky residue, indicating internal failure
- Listen for any rattling inside the sensor when gently shaking it
- Use a multimeter to check sensor voltage (professional assistance recommended)
Safety Warning: Never check oxygen sensors while the engine or exhaust is hot. Complete access to an oxygen sensor requires elevating the car (or at least the front end), which may require a mechanic’s services.
Symptoms:
- Illuminated check engine light
- Rough idling
- Reduced fuel economy
- Engine stalling or hesitation
- Black exhaust smoke
- Failed emissions test
What to Inspect:
- Visually trace all wiring from the sensor to the connector
- Look for breaks, fraying, melting, or damage from road debris
- Gently flex the wiring to check for hidden breaks
- Check for proper connection at both ends—no loose pins
- Look for signs of rodent damage or chewing
Pro Tip: Use a flashlight and mirror to inspect hard-to-see wiring areas.
Symptoms:
- Illuminated check engine light
- No power to the oxygen sensor
What to Inspect:
- Identify the oxygen sensor fuse in the fuse box (check the owner’s manual or a service guide for the location)
- Remove and examine the fuse
- Check for a broken metal strip inside
- Test with a multimeter if unsure
Pro Tip: Always use a replacement fuse with the same amperage rating as the original.
See How To Fix P0133 Causes (below) for a DIY fix.
Symptoms:
- Illuminated check engine light
- Reduced fuel economy
- Engine hesitation
- Unusual engine noise
- Burning smell or unusual odor
- Gas pedal vibration
What to Inspect:
- Start the engine when it’s cold
- Listen for any ticking or hissing sounds near the exhaust manifold
- Look for black soot marks around exhaust joints
Safety Warning: An exhaust smell or sudden drowsiness while driving could indicate deadly carbon monoxide in your cabin. Pull over, exit immediately, and get your car towed. Never risk driving with these symptoms.
Symptoms:
- Illuminated check engine light
- Rough idling
- Engine hesitation or stalling
- Multiple related trouble codes
What to Inspect:
- Visually inspect the sensor for dirt, oil film, or debris buildup
- Check for damage to the sensor’s delicate wire elements
- Look for loose connections at the electrical plug
- Inspect the engine air filter—a dirty filter often means a dirty MAF sensor
Pro Tip: Most MAF sensors can be cleaned with a specialized MAF sensor cleaner spray—never use other cleaners or touch the sensor elements.
See How To Fix P0133 Causes (below) for a DIY fix.
Symptoms:
- Illuminated check engine light
- Engine performance issues
- Difficulty starting the engine
- Random misfires
What to Inspect:
- Turn the key to the “ON” position (don’t start the engine)
- Listen for a 2-3 second whirring sound from the fuel tank (this indicates normal operation and the priming of the fuel system)
- Observe fuel pressure gauge readings (if the car is so equipped)
- Monitor for inconsistent idle or hesitation
Note: Fuel pump diagnosis often requires professional equipment for accurate testing.
Symptoms:
- Illuminated check engine light
- Engine performance issues
- Rough Idling
- Black exhaust smoke
What to Inspect:
- Inspect the area around the regulator for any signs of fuel seepage or wetness
- A potent fuel odor coming from under the hood can indicate regulator failure
- Advanced DIY Task: With the engine cold and off, disconnect the vacuum line – fuel shouldn’t be present inside
Note: You’ll need a mechanic with professional fuel pressure testing equipment for a conclusive diagnosis.
Symptoms:
- Illuminated check engine light
- Slow engine warm-up
- Lack of cabin heat
- Temperature gauge reading low
- Engine running cooler
- Fluctuating temperature readings
- Reduced fuel economy
- Engine performance issues
- Difficulty starting the engine
- Incorrect idle speed
- Transmission shifting issues
- Multiple, seemingly unrelated error codes
What to Inspect:
- Check for check engine light functionality
- Look for numerous seemingly unrelated codes
- Test battery voltage (low voltage can mimic ECM issues)
- Verify ECM ground connections are clean and tight
Note: ECM/PCM issues are rare but require professional diagnosis with specialized equipment.
Can I drive with a P0133 code?
Quick answer: Yes. While a P0133 code won’t immediately harm your engine, ignoring it for over a couple of weeks could lead to more significant, more expensive problems.
Continued driving with a P0133 code poses a risk to the catalytic converter and engine because of an imbalanced air-to-fuel ratio. A rich condition (too much fuel or insufficient oxygen) sends excess fuel into the catalytic converter, causing overheating and eventual failure. A lean condition (too much oxygen or insufficient fuel) can cause engine overheating and possible internal damage from running too hot.
The situation becomes serious if the problem causes engine hesitation or stalling. Conditions that are dangerous on the highway or turning at an intersection. A loss of engine performance of this nature is best handled by calling a tow truck.
Here’s a more detailed look at driveability with a P0133 code.
| Causes | Can I Drive? | Risks / Safety / Performance |
|---|---|---|
|
Faulty Oxygen Sensor/Defective Oxygen Sensor Harness |
Yes, you can drive with a P0133 code for a week or two, but get the problem repaired soon. Don’t drive if the car hesitates or stalls, as these conditions can be dangerous. |
Driving with a bad oxygen sensor or wiring can damage the catalytic converter and lead to dangerous stalling or hesitation. The engine will also waste fuel and may run poorly until the problem is fixed. |
|
Damaged Fuse |
Yes, you can drive with a P0133 code for a week or two, but get the problem repaired soon. Don’t drive if the car hesitates or stalls, as these conditions can be dangerous. |
A blown oxygen sensor fuse will cause the engine to run in “open loop” mode with a preset-rich fuel mixture, wasting gas and potentially damaging the catalytic converter. This default-rich condition can also cause poor performance and possible stalling.
|
|
Exhaust Leak |
Yes, you can drive with a P0133 code for a week or two, but get the problem repaired soon. Don’t drive if the car hesitates or stalls, as these conditions can be dangerous. |
An exhaust leak near the oxygen sensor can trigger false readings that cause poor engine performance, stalling, and wasted fuel. It also risks letting dangerous carbon monoxide enter the vehicle’s cabin, which can be lethal.
|
|
Defective Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor |
Yes, you can drive with a P0133 code for a week or two, but get the problem repaired soon. Don’t drive if the car hesitates or stalls, as these conditions can be dangerous. |
A dirty or faulty MAF sensor will cause incorrect air-fuel mixtures, leading to poor performance, stalling, and reduced fuel economy. Over time, this can also damage the catalytic converter. |
|
Malfunctioning Fuel Pump/Fuel Pressure Regulator |
Yes, you can drive with a P0133 code for a week or two, but get the problem repaired soon. Don’t drive if the car hesitates or stalls, as these conditions can be dangerous. |
A failing fuel pump or pressure regulator can cause engine stalling and hesitation due to unstable fuel delivery, creating dangerous driving conditions. The inconsistent fuel pressure also forces the oxygen sensor to work harder, potentially damaging it and other critical components. |
|
Defective Engine Control Module / Powertrain Control Module |
Yes, you can drive with a P0133 code for a week or two, but get the problem repaired soon. Don’t drive if the car hesitates or stalls, as these conditions can be dangerous. |
A faulty ECM/PCM can cause erratic engine performance, unexpected stalling, and sudden power loss since it can’t properly control fuel delivery and timing. Because the computer can’t correctly interpret or respond to oxygen sensor data, your engine may run too rich or too lean, potentially damaging the catalytic converter or the engine. The unpredictable nature of ECM/PCM failures makes this problem particularly dangerous while driving. |
DIY | How To Fix P0133 Causes
A DIY approach to replacing a bad oxygen sensor isn’t an option for most car owners. Accessing the part requires jacks for the front end and a specialized socket not found in the average home garage. Plus, crawling underneath a car is a non-starter for many.
However, those looking for a more modest challenge with P0133-related repairs might want to try other activities (if they are the source of the trouble). These projects include replacing a blown fuse—a simple project that every car owner should know how to complete. For a slightly more involved effort, cleaning or replacing a mass air flow (MAF) sensor isn’t out of the question.
Possible Cause: Damaged Fuse
What is it?
Your vehicle’s oxygen sensor needs a proper electrical current, often regulated by a specific fuse. If this fuse blows, the sensor stops working altogether. However, not all vehicles have a separate O2 sensor fuse. In these cases, you’ll need a professional electrical system diagnosis.
How hard is it to fix?
Difficulty Level: Easy
Replacing a blown fuse is one of the simplest car repairs you can do yourself, potentially saving a trip to the mechanic. Each fuse in your vehicle protects a specific circuit or component, and using the correct amperage is crucial to prevent electrical system damage.
Safety First:
- Always turn off the engine and remove the key before working with fuses
- Never force a fuse into place – it should fit easily
- Never substitute a higher amperage fuse—this can cause an electrical fire
Locating The O2 Sensor Fuse:
- Check the owner’s manual for fuse box locations (commonly under the dash or in the engine bay)
- Look for a diagram with labels like “O2 Sensor,” “O2,” or “Lambda Sensor”
- Take a photo of the fuse layout before removing anything for additional reference
Removing and Inspecting the Fuse:
- Use a fuse puller tool (often stored in the fuse box) or small needle-nose pliers
- Look for dark discoloration or a broken metal strip inside the fuse
- Compare the suspect fuse to a known good one
Replacement Tips:
- Always match the original fuse amperage exactly
- Keep spare fuses in your glove box for emergencies
Warning Signs:
- If the same fuse keeps blowing, there’s likely a deeper electrical problem
- Multiple blown fuses indicate a need for professional diagnosis
Cost of Repairs
A new oxygen sensor fuse costs $1– $5 on average.
Possible Cause: Dirty or Defective MAF Sensor
What is it?
The Mass Air Flow sensor measures the air entering your engine, helping the computer calculate the proper fuel mixture. When dirty or faulty, it sends incorrect readings that make your oxygen sensor work harder to compensate, potentially triggering a P0133 code.
How hard is it to fix?
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Cleaning a MAF sensor requires careful attention to detail and specific materials, while replacement is straightforward but may require dealer programming. Both tasks are achievable for DIY mechanics who follow proper procedures.
Safety First:
-
- Allow the engine to cool completely before working
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal
- Never touch the sensor elements—they’re extremely fragile
- Use only specialized MAF sensor cleaner
- Work in a well-ventilated area
Cleaning Procedure:
- Locate the MAF sensor (typically between the air filter and the throttle body)
- Take a photo of the sensor orientation before removal (for reference during reassembly)
- Remove the sensor (usually 2-4 screws)
- Hold the sensor by the housing only
- Spray the MAF cleaner in short bursts at the sensor elements
- Allow to dry completely (20 minutes)
- Reinstall the sensor in the exact original orientation
- Reconnect battery
Replacement Tips:
- Compare the new sensor to the old one before installation
- Transfer any gaskets or O-rings if needed
- Ensure the electrical connector clicks firmly
- Some vehicles require dealer programming after replacement
- Consider buying OEM parts for better reliability
Warning Signs:
- If cleaning doesn’t help, a replacement may be needed
- Multiple check engine codes often indicate MAF sensor failure
- Reoccurring issues suggest intake air leaks
- Some vehicles need ECM relearning after MAF cleaning or replacement
Relearning Procedures:
- Basic relearn: Start the engine, let it idle for 5-10 minutes
- Some vehicles: Drive specific patterns (dealer documentation needed)
- Complex cases: Professional scan tool programming is required
- If unsure, consult the dealer about relearning requirements
Cost of Repairs
- MAF sensor cleaner: $10-$20 (plus other supplies/tools, as needed)
- New MAF sensor: $36-$47 depending on vehicle
- Professional relearning (if required): $50-150
Other DIY Considerations for Code P0133
Before dealing with any code P0133-related repair, check whether your car is under warranty. You can save money by letting the automaker handle the work. In addition, research if there are any technical service bulletins (TSBs) for your car. TSBs are official repair/correction notices issued by the manufacturer that cover specific problem areas. You can research this online or contact a dealer
P0133 Code FAQs
What makes and models does code P0133 affect the most?
Here’s a breakdown of the vehicles most affected by code P0174, according to FIXD sensor data collected in 2023.
| Make | Model | Occurrence Frequency |
| Ford | F-150 | High |
| Toyota | Corolla | High |
| Chevrolet | Cobalt | Medium |
| Dodge | Ram 1500 | Medium |
| Ford | Mustang | Medium |
| Infiniti | G35 | Medium |
| Jeep | Grand Cherokee | Medium |
| Jeep | Wrangler | Medium |
| Nissan | Frontier | Medium |
| Nissan | Xterra | Medium |
What causes code P0133?
A P0133 code is triggered when the oxygen sensor responds too slowly to changes in the exhaust stream, which can be caused by several issues ranging from a failing oxygen sensor itself to damaged wiring, blown fuses, or exhaust leaks. Other common causes include a dirty/faulty mass airflow sensor, weak fuel pump, or bad fuel pressure regulator, while less frequently, it may be due to engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) problems
References:
Repair-cost estimates, repairpal.com (various dates). Retrieved January 14, 2025, from repairpal.com.
Dave Goldberg is an automotive journalist and lifelong car fanatic. He writes for numerous enthusiast and business outlets and is an ongoing contributor to HotCars.com, one of the most popular car culture websites. When he’s not writing or driving, Dave is either under a hood or asleep. His credentials include a BA in Journalism from The George Washington University.
13 Responses
Does FIXD work on different vehicles
How much do I charge to replace the sensors
I have replaced the bank 1 and 2 02 sensors and also replaced the mass air flow sensor and the code and check engine light comes on now once the fuel gauge gets about a half a tank. I fill it up and it goes away until half a tank again.
Mine does the same thing. It appears like there is a vacuum leak in the line from the fuel tank to the charcoal canister, or vacuum source to the fuel tank. I am told a smoke test at a repair shop is required to find the leak.
I have exactly the same problem as Art has. Plus, I get kinda “drum” noise from the fuel tank as if something is blowing air on a closed circuit piece of cardboard. I figured when I open the gas tank lid, soda can effect pops up as if there was some pressure that was released and then noise goes away.
I have replaced O2 sensor, and now converter as well.
Don is right. There is most likely a vacuum link. My fuel consumption is exorbitant, hardly 18-19 mpg combined when it is supposed to be 22/37 mpg for my fusion.
How did you perform the smoke test, and what was the remedy? Any help would be appreciated
I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata code p0133 where is the O2 sensor location bank 1 sensor 1 on my vehicle
I will replace the 02 sensors bank 1 and 2.
Location of mass air flow sensor
Mass airflow sensor will be in the air intake right after the air filter. Correct me if I’m wrong, FIXD.
where do I find my po133 sensor
O2 sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) is located in front of the catalytic converter, towards the front of your engine.
FIXD Team
Hello i have a quesrion i have a crown Victoria ex police and,i have the code p0133 so i pit a new o2 sensor and,i delet the,code,but is still show me,the,code and,the,car feel run roughly and,i hear by the gas thank a whistle so i think is a vaccum there. So can u help me,please thank you
I clean the mass air flow sensor too and,is the same code on i installed a new fuel pressure too